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grasshopper
Senior Member
1652 Posts |
 Posted - 03 October 2010 : 19:25:56
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Could it be a classic case of new engine 'pinch'? It happens until the engine is warmed up/run-in. Sometimes it helps to put some oil in the plug hole and turn it over for a while without the plug in. Better still or as well as, pre heat the engine before trying to start it. A couple of minutes with a hair drier helps.
If that doesn't help you can bring it round to my place- I have a gizmo I want to try out on a tight engine! |
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TomTom
Average Member
Kyrgyzstan
596 Posts |
Posted - 03 October 2010 : 19:37:46
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| Hairdrier works well. On my GX5 i had to put a sock around the cooling head, then sit a hairdrier on top blowing onto the cylinder head for about 5 or 10 minutes before my starter box would turn it over. |
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grasshopper
Senior Member
1652 Posts |
Posted - 03 October 2010 : 19:59:12
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I've actually bought one of these after seeing a visitor to our track use one to good advantage....
http://rcsurestart.co.uk/
and I've yet to try it out |
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David Smeaton
New Member
United Kingdom
81 Posts |
Posted - 04 October 2010 : 20:18:54
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Ok Folks to put my 10 pence worth in.........
Starter box: I have run a Mugen box for 8-10 years for my Mugen and Hobao cars as once you get the knack you can use pretty much any box, also I use 2x 7.4V 1800 mAh Ni-CAD as the Voltage is key to delivering the amps which crank the motors (14.4V against 12V). Even 1800mAh cells will deliver far higher amps for short periods.
Quality - Buy cheap buy twice!!!
Starting a tight engine: I've never pre-heated an engine although it seams popular these days. With a decent starter box wind the fly wheel as far as it will go in the oposite direction to the direction the starter box turns, take the plug out, air filter on, throttle open and a rag over the head to catch the fuel and turn the engine over until the box reaches max revs. Now you can now try starting it so close throttle, air filter on gently nip the plug up and see if it will start. If so run it in how you think best; if not loosen the plug and try starting and nip plug up as soon as it fires.
In car battery packs: generally 2 voltages (7.4V Li-po or 6V Ni-MH) and huge range of mAh. the higher the voltage the quicker servos will operate and the higher the mAh the longer the battery will last between charges. I run 1400mAh Ni-MH and charge them once a meeting just to make sure.
Hope this helps........... |
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Tnx king
Junior Member
United Kingdom
331 Posts |
Posted - 07 October 2010 : 18:22:28
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i thought i would use this platform as it already says help.
Please could someone explain about lipo for me 5600 25c ? 50c? i am runnig a shortcoarse 10.5 bl and i really need to go to lipos but what ones should i get and how do i know which ones to get ???
any help would be appreciated
ben |
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TomTom
Average Member
Kyrgyzstan
596 Posts |
Posted - 07 October 2010 : 19:10:25
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Im in the same boat as Ben. Completely new to electric, and Lipo's baffle me. Race packs are my limit! :-D
Thanks
Tom |
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David Smeaton
New Member
United Kingdom
81 Posts |
Posted - 07 October 2010 : 21:08:46
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Ok, the 5600 is 5600mAh which is the capacity so the higher the better (Li-Po, NI-HM, NI-CAD, Lead Acid it makes no difference to battery type). You will probably find that you will use 2000-2700mAh for a race with a reasonable motor/gearing so going higher may mean you can run 2 races from 1 battery.
C = Battery mAh rating therefore the C rating (25C,30C etc) is basically the rate at which you can discharge (acceleration punch) the pack. So a 5600mAh 40C will discharge or accelerate at 40x5600mAh which will is quicker/faster than a 30C (30x5600mAh).
Generally you should only charge at 1C (The mAh rating of the battery). Some manufacturers produce batteries which can be charged at 2C - Twice the mAh rating.
Be aware that BRCA will only allow allow 40C or 40+C cells, decent UK brands will label 50C packs as 40+C making them BRCA legal.
Li-Po does not have a electrical memory so you can race and recharge without fully discharging but leave cells for 45mins to equalise before recharging. Every 10+ charges should be a ballance charge.
MAke sure car cells are hard case and check the overall dimms as the larger the capasity generally the larger the external dimensions. Li-Po is not as robust as Ni-MH and must not be shorted, cracked or subject to hard knocks.
There are more small bits of info so feel free to ask. |
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