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andym
New Member
United Kingdom
38 Posts |
 Posted - 10 September 2009 : 16:08:15
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Are there any battery experts in our midst?
I need some new AAs for my transmitter (a rebranded Futaba system, labelled as a Hobao HT2). I've bought (seemingly foolishly) 8 Profitexx AAs from an ebay shop. I've tried charging them with the delta base pro peak variable rate charger through the charging jack plug on the transmitter. The light flickers on the charger to suggest its beginning to charge then it goes out almost instantly. I lost patience with them and went and bought a cheap charger from Maplins. I charged them as per instructions but when i put them in the transmitter they dont even light the LED to say its switched on! I went and bought some more batteries and charged them as per instructions but still no joy, and the same problem of no LED illumintaion. All the batteries are NiMh's as everything i read prior to buying them suggested they were best for this type of application. Where am i going wrong? Do i need NiCads?
HELP!!
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coupe-se
New Member
85 Posts |
Posted - 10 September 2009 : 18:03:03
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Stick with Nimh batteries as they are better all round.
Stupid question but is the charger jack on the transmitter the opposite polarity to normal? My Spektrum is back to front and the centre pin is negative.
If the polarity is wrong then the LED will not light.
If you have a volt meter check all the batteries. They should be 1.2 to 1.3volts fully charged. If one battery is dead with no continuity through it, this will stop the LED from illuminating.
It will be something really simple!!! |
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grasshopper
Senior Member
1652 Posts |
Posted - 10 September 2009 : 21:14:20
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As far as transmitters are concerned, I would chuck out the rechargeables, stick in a set of decent alkaline dry cell batteries and use them for a year, when they go flat invest in another set....
Rechargeable (and they will, or should, be NimH as Nicads are now not supposed to be sold any longer - not green due to the cadmium) batteries are usually a few points of a volt down compared to dry cells with no facility to stick another cell in to up the voltage. The current draw from a transmitter, if just used mainly for racing, is so low as to make dry cells a viable proposition. I generally replace mine once a year - and I race almost every week.
Where the other end is concerned, the current draw is high, due to the constant use of servo motors, rechargeable cells / batteries are the sensible option - but as most will know, you need to have the extra cell to bring the voltage up to 6 volts.
Follow the advice from Nick (coupe-se) and if you get no joy, bring the lot down with you to Laughton and I'll have a look at it, or if you want to drive to Grantham, bring it round to my house over the weekend. |
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andym
New Member
United Kingdom
38 Posts |
Posted - 11 September 2009 : 22:32:05
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Thanks guys, turns out that the 'nipple' on the end of a rechargeable battery is shorter than an alkaline. I just bent out the terminals on the transmitter and now it works and i have 16 spare rechargeable AAs!
I still have the problem that the steering servo seems to go full right lock and stay there. I was hoping it was due to flat batteries in the transmitter but i got a volt meter tonight on the alkalines that i took out and they're still reading 1.3 volts. Anyone got any ideas why im going round in circles... literally?!?! |
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grasshopper
Senior Member
1652 Posts |
Posted - 11 September 2009 : 23:07:04
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As regards the steering, take the servo arm off and re-centre it first, just to make sure it's not shifted on the shaft. and whilst it's off check (without any load on) if it still goes left and right and then returns to neutral.
Are there any adjusters on the tranny that have been knocked ? trim pots and reversing switches all set correctly?
Has your tx been dropped at any time - creating a loose connection?
Do you have a failsafe fitted ( to the wrong channel?) that's causing it.
Are we actually talking about the original servo or a new one you've fitted? |
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